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Breaking: 400m… 200m… till the Summit on K2 – 2021 Winter Ascent

“We are now 200m away to make Nepal n climbing community proud.” – Mingma G [2 min. ago – 13.00]

Estimated: Summit around 2-2:30 pm local time.

“We have crossed bottle neck.” – Mingma G – 1 hr ago

The plan was to leave high camp around 1:00 am Saturday morning and summit about 12 hours later. Of course, a lot depends on snow and wind conditions. It will be cold, with wind chills hovering around -55C/-67F. They will be setting the fixed rope as they climb, so later teams will probably move faster.

Remember that Migma G is climbing without supplemental oxygen. He could be the first to summit K2 in the winter with no Os.

Summit Push Update #2, 13:00: (all times local K2)

Dawa from SST notes: “Team crossing bottle neck in Mt. K2.” If they left at 1:00am, this is extremely slow but they are fixing rope and have a climber without Os. Current wind on K2’s summit from Amazing.

There is always a time lag in these ascents. I assume they will cross the Traverse quickly and summit in the afternoon, which, unlike Everest, is not a problem.


The bottleneck is the key step of K2. An extremely vertical slope of about 50 O 60 degrees located 8.230 meters and flows into a narrow corridor of about 100 meters long, all it dominated by gigantic and imposing seracs. It is situated just 400 meters from the summit and mountaineers are fully exposed to seracs and possible landslides.

As recorded AdventureStats, 13 the last 14 K2 deaths have occurred in the bottleneck or near.​

Nonetheless, The bottleneck is still the easiest and fastest route to the summit. Both the Abruzzi Spur route as the Cease and American variant that crosses the east side to reach the summit South East through the bottleneck.

Alan Arnette:

With the fixed ropes set to 7800-meters, the summit team left Camp 4 near 25,080’/7600m for the summit at 1:00 am Saturday. The team of ten includes:

Nims’ Team:

  • Nirmal Purja Pun Magar aka Nimsdai
  • Gelje Sherpa
  • Mingma David Sherpa
  • Mingma Tenzi Sherpa
  • Dawa Temba Sherpa
  • Pem Chhiri Sherpa

MIngma G’s team:

  • Mingma G
  • Kilu Pemba Sherpa
  • Dawa Tenjing Sherpa

SST Sherpa:

  • Sona Sherpa

Nims will lead the summit team and they suggest there will be no one person claiming the summit but rather a team summit on behalf of Nepal.

This has been Mingma G.’s plan all along with his Sherpa only team. Nims summit team is also only Sherpa.

One Sherpa from Severn Summits Treks is on the summit push.

Mingma and Nims, have expressed a deep desire to show the world that Nepalis are just as credible climbers as any other nationality on the planet.

UPDATEAlan Arnette

Summit Push Update #4, 4:30: (all times local K2)

NO UPDATES from the team as of this time.

“I’m in continuous contact with their teams. I’m told all ten climbers will collect 30 feet below the summit and top out together. The weather remains good but the winds are forecasted to pick up significantly later Saturday night into Sunday.”

There are a few scenarios:

  1. They are holding the announcement for sponsors (primarily Nim’s Red Bull, etc.)
  2. They are just celebrating for themselves and will get to us eventually or
  3. They are waiting for the slowest climber to join them to summit together.