Around 5:00 pm on Saturday, January 16, 2021, the team of Sherpas and Nepalis stood on the summit of the world’s second-highest mountain, K2, on the border of Pakistan and China.
They are positioning the summit as a victory for Nepal and the Sherpa nation.
All 10 Nepal and Sherpa climbers summited around 5 pm local marking first K2 winter summit and last of the fourteen 8000ers. Mingma G and Nimsdai lead the team
All ten climbers stopped 30-feet [10m] below the summit [28,251-feet – 8,611m] on a relatively safe spot (still on a 40-degree snow slope at 28,220-feet [8,600m]) so that they could summit together in a sign of solidarity. No individual was listed as first.
“Finally we did it . We made the history in mountaineering field.” – Mingma G [17:17]
Lead by Mingma Gyalje Sherpa, Nirmal Purja Pun Magar aka “Nimsdai” and eight Sherpas: Gelje Sherpa, Mingma David Sherpa, Mingma Tenzi Sherpa, Dawa Temba Sherpa, Pem Chhiri Sherpa, Kilu Pemba Sherpa, Dawa Tenjing Sherpa, and Sona Sherpa, they took advantage of a short weather window when winds were under ten mph- unheard of for K2’s summit in the summer, much less the winter. They are said to be descending now.
The team of ten climbers, Sherpas, and Nepalis, left Base Camp on Tuesday, January 12. They followed the fixed rope already installed by John Snorri Sigurjonsson with Muhammad Ali Sadpara and his son Sajid Ali to Camp 1, then on to Camp 2 with lines set by Mingma G’s team. On Wednesday, they followed ropes established by Mingma G and Nims over the Black Pyramid and set up Camp 3. On Thursday, they made fantastic progress and got the line to 7,300m near Camp 4, aka “High Camp,” the only flattish spot on the entire route. They established a Camp a bit lower at 7,350-meters. Winds were so high on Thursday night that some climbers took cover in shallow crevasses rather than set up tents.
Winds are forecasted to pick back up to 40 and even 100 mph later in the week, so this window is closing quickly for the other aspirants. They may have a chance at the end of January of into February. Of note, with this summit today, there is zero doubt that it was in winter regardless of the Meteorological or Astronomical definition.
Source: Alan Arnette
Nims’ [Nirmal Purja] at 17:39:
THE IMPOSSIBLE IS MADE POSSIBLE ! #K2winter – History made for mankind, History made for Nepal
At 17:00 hrs local time @nimsdai and team summited K2, teaming up with Mingma G and team and a member from SST, Sona Sherpa.
A very special moment. The whole team waited 10m below the summit to form a group then stepped onto the summit together whilst singing our Nepalese National Anthem. We are proud to have been a part of history for humankind and to show that collaboration, teamwork and a positive mental attitude can push limits to what we feel might be possible.
Summiting team members include:
1. Nimsdai Purja
2. Mingma David Sherpa (Team Nimsdai)
3. Mingma Tenzi Sherpa (Team Nimsdai)
4. Geljen Sherpa (Team Nimsdai)
5. Pem Chiri Sherpa (Team Nimsdai)
6. Dawa Temba Sherpa (Team Nimsdai)
7. Mingma G
8. Dawa Tenjin Sherpa (Team Mingma G)
9. Kilu Pemba Sherpa (Team Mingma G)
10. Sona Sherpa (SST)
“We all 10 sherpa safely descent to camp3. We will descend back to base camp tomorrow. Thanks for your prayers” – Mingma G at 22:50