On 13th Jan night, our camp was below Black Pyramid and their camp was above Black Pyramid. we were close to each other still we were far.
It was 2 hour climb from our camp to their camp.
After we united, we shared same frequencies walkie-talkie. At night, Nims, Dawa and I discussed further on the plan. Nims also told me that summit try on 15thJan has to change to 16th Jan as weather was changing and 16th Jan was showing better weather than 15th Jan.
Their weather report showed 14th January still high wind so they didn’t want to take risk on 14th Jan because it could cause severe frostbites and ruin whole plan too. Before the discussion, I got my new weather report which has changed.
My new report was showing good weather on 14th Jan and high wind on 15th Jan.
I shared my report with them but they doubt as it was from Nepal and their weather forecasts were from foreign experts.
We couldn’t decide whether to continue to Camp3 or take rest at 7000m so we ended the conversation saying we will discuss next morning receiving the new weather report and checking the morning weather.
We had too much wind at night and we couldn’t sleep properly.
The next morning I got fresh weather report which again showed 14th Jan was better than 15th Jan.
Early in the morning Nims and I started chatting and shared my new weather report. We also could see there was no wind and it was sunny day from our camp which means my weather report was right.
Still he tried to connect his Base Camp team for new weather report but nobody responded him. I told him we will go to Camp3 and spend night there and I also told him we need to use one extra day for fixing line to Camp4 and check the condition above which Nims agreed as he was thinking the same plan.
Then we packed everything and started our climb towards Camp3.
We had sunny day with very less wind.
When I reached Camp3, I felt we were lucky that Nims Base Camp team’s walkie-Talkie didn’t work that morning because every weather report on that day still showed extremely high wind except my weather forecast. we reached Camp3 in good weather.
Source: Mingma G – FB