With the arrival of the first mountaineers at the Base Camp they reached the summit of K2 on July 26, finding the bodies of Mohr, Snorri and Sadpara along the ascent route, we begin to have a clearer picture of what could have happened that tragic 5 February, 2021 to the three climbers .
To give some more details, is the Ukrainian mountaineer Valentyn Sypavin, who was joined by the questions of Elena Laletina, of Russianclimb.
Sypavin explains that the first to be found was Mohr, about 20 minutes from Camp4.
- Remember that this winter the highest camp on the mountain was Camp3.
“Ali and John were attached by jumars to fixed ropes. They were both without oxygen masks or O2 bottles…The Chilean [JP Mohr] lay just 20 minutes from C4. He was the first downhill [… I. He walked quickly and maybe went first. I think he just froze on the slope. Maybe he was waiting for [the other] two…”
Higher up, as seen in the photo, Muhammad Ali Sapdara and John Snorri, both still attached to the fixed ropes one with a descender, the other with a sliding carabiner.
This can only mean that they were going down and not going up.
Another detail is that no one wore oxygen masks and cylinders.
That they were turning back after reaching the Summit cannot be said, they may have given up higher.
It is hoped, however, to be able to find out soon since Elia Saikaly, climbing partner of Sajid Sadpara, announced that he had found Snorri’s GoPro and GPS.
As already mentioned, the three bodies were moved from the normal route by Sajid Sadpara and placed in safety. The recovery or not will be evaluated later with the priority not to expose any mountaineers who try to risk too high.
What may have happened
Given the position in which they were found, falling or other external factors, such as a collapse of ice, can be ruled out.
It was the cold and the tiredness that gave them no escape.
The fact that Snorri and Sadpara, who we know for sure were going up with oxygen, were found without cylinders suggests that at some point they ran out and that the two climbers got rid of them.
With the acclimatization they had, fatigue and especially the extreme conditions of winter K2, it was not possible to survive.
Valentine Sipavin, K2 summiteer (UKR):
“I was first who found JP [Mohr], dug him [out] from the snow. Ali & John were attached to fixed rope by jumars, they both without oxygen masks and oxy bottles … The Chilean was lying 20 minutes from C4, he walked quickly and could go first. I think he just froze already on the slope. Maybe he was waiting for two … “
UPDATE: They were attached to the fixed rope not by jumars! One by descender, other by sliding carabiner.
“The three climbers were retreating, with or without a summit, and not climbing.”
Source: Elena Laletina