There were 4 different teams on K2 this winter and every individual climber on K2 was there to be the first.
They all knew the history of K2 and the risk. If someone complains then it means he/she was not fit, not ready for the climb. If someone says he/she was there for their hobby then we will definitely see them next winter.
Two Nepalese teams led by Nims Dai and myself united at 7000m to make a joint effort.
8 out of 14 8000ers are in Nepal. All our 8 mountains were climbed by our foreign friends. Sishapangma from Tibet and 4 from Pakistan had already climbed by foreign friends again.
Nepalese Sherpa have been regarded as backbone on Himalayas and 8000ers climbing and it was kind of a shame that we don’t have even one 8000ers winter first ascent in our hand.
So we made a joint effort on K2 for Nepal and Nepalese climbing community.
Pakistan was lucky to have Ali Sadpara who made Nanga Parbat for his nation. K2 was only remaining 8000ers and was tried by several expedition teams since 1987/88 winter but never succeeded.
People started believing K2 can’t be climbed in winter. So the success on K2 was necessary.
On this winter K2 success, only we know the pressure we had, the hard work we did, how much we suffered in -65deg temperature and cold wind. We can’t even explain how our family suffered worrying about our lives.
Going through such difficult situations we achieved our goal on 16th January and we flew back from the mountain on 20th January by Pakistan’s Army helicopter which the government of Pakistan sent us free of cost. We are very thankful to them.
What happened on K2 after 20th January is not related to us as we were independent teams.
After we flew back to the city, we were also following them on social media and made comment lying on bed. It was so easy to comment but only few knew how difficult it was on the mountain in winter.
We felt sad to hear about the accident on 5th February and I was also praying for the miracles to happen.
My sympathy and sincere condolence to their families. Congratulations to all who came back safely and we pray for the peace of the deceased soul.
Source: Mingma G – FB
Header: Mingma G