As per our plan, we woke up at around 12am.

It used to take almost 25-30minutes to get a liter of water boiled.

In the morning, I was still feeling tired so I gave up my plan to go without oxygen.

Nims Dai, Kili, Dawa Tenjin, Sona, Dawa Temba and Mingma Tenzing were ready and they started climbing ahead.

I was trying to fit my oxygen regulator which didn’t fit and I had to find spare from other friends which made my hand so cold. So I went back inside the tent to warm my hand.

When I got ready, some of them were already climbing closer to Camp 4.

Mingma David, Pem Chhiri and Gelje were also getting ready and then I started climbing.

Right after me, Mingma David also started. Pem Chhiri and Gelje were little behind.

Within two hours, Mingma David and I reached Camp 4 in cold wind.

He has his bottle of oxygen deposited there so he put it in his bag and I helped him carry 20m rope and I started climbing ahead.

I didn’t realize he stopped there to fix his boot and I alone continued.

Crossing the creavasse, I waited him for a while but he didn’t come so I thought to continue as it was little windy and I was getting so cold.

I almost gave up there because of cold and I was worried to loose my toes.

I contacted Dawa Tenjin but he didn’t receive my call and I checked on my watch, it was already 5 am in the morning.

The sun usually come at 6 so I push myself ahead. In a few minutes, the wind stopped and we also saw the sun rays. I continued walking ahead and Pem Chhiri was seen behind me.

The sun came to us and I stopped there almost for 20 minutes to warm my body and I saw Pem Chhiri also stopped. Far away, I saw Mingma David and Gelje coming together.

The heat from sun gave us extra energy.

Our first team already started fixing the lower part of Bottleneck and we tried to catch up them.

Finally after the Bottleneck, the whole team met at traverse.

Source: Mingma G – FB

Header: Pem Chhiri getting closer to me – Mingma G