Resting 3 days in a base camp, we planned to go higher as the weather forecast from 28 to 30th Dec was showing perfect.
We started our climbing back on mountain on 27th Dec to camp1 and 28thto Camp2 where we set our camp2 at 6800m (upper camp2) and on the same day after setting our camp, Kili and I went for fixing rope above and fixed 400m rope more then descended back to camp2 with torch light and spent our first night in higher camp.
On 29th December we moved our camp higher to 7000m so that we could sleep higher and fix the rope higher.
Since we had to set up our camp in a new place, it took us more than 2 hours to dig a place for our tent in cold temperature and cold wind.
Half of our day was gone. Fixing the camp, Dawa Tenjin went back to camp2 to fetch our remaining equipment and I went to fix the rope alone on Black Pyramid part. Kili stayed back in the camp because he got chest pain and his oxygen level was showing low.
By evening Dawa came with the equipment from camp2 and I returned back checking the way till Japanese camp3 and we had early rest.
At night we calculated the rope and realised we remained only 900m rope with us and the plan was to fix the rope till camp3 next day. In 900m rope, 600m ropes were of 6mm which were very light to carry and were of very good quality so we wanted to save those 600m rope for the final day to go summit. The remaining 300m rope was not enough to go camp3 sowe had to coordinate with Nims Dai for rope.
We knew Nims dai’s team had arrived in lower camp2 on that day but we didn’t have the same frequency radio to contact so we connected with our base camp team and told them to go to the 7 summit team totalk with Dawa. Then I got connected with Dawa and asked his help to get connected with Nims’s team to get us rope if they have with them.
Dawa asked towait and then in a few minutes he gave me a radio call saying Nims team willclimb up next day to help us fix camp3.
Source: Mingma G – FB