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K2 Winter: Tackling with crevasse to Camp 4 – Mingma G. Journal

The next morning on 15th Jan., the weather at Camp 3 and above was fine and we had our camp almost 300m above from the point we stopped on 30th Dec. so Kili and Dawa Tenjin went down and brought all our deposits to Camp 3, hope you remember we had some deposit below ice section during our fixing to Camp 3.

After that Mingma Tenzi, Mingma David, Sona and I started heading upward and started fixing ropes to Camp 4. We followed the way to Camp 4 the same way we do in summer.

When we reached the rope point Nims Dai and two sherpa left the previous day, I started fixing ahead and fixed 200m further.

Then I waited for Mingma David and Mingma Tenzi to bring the rope so that I can continue further. When they reached my place, I asked them if we could do more on the left hand side and try to follow towards the Cesen side and Mingma David suggested to follow the Summer Route.

Mingma David was right at his point because we successfully climbed through that route previously and it was not wise to go through the new route which was unknown.

We moved more toward the right hand side and fixed further almost 200m rope.

When we started climbing the big wall below the Camp 4, we found big crevasse which was impossible to cross but we didn’t lose our hope. We tried more on the right side, still the same.

Then we descended back a little and tried to find on the left side, again it was the same so we descended all the way back just above Camp 3 where we started fixing. Then we tried the same way which I suggested and we finally got the way to Camp 4.

The crevasse continued but there was ice serac collapsed in one part which covered the upper part of crevasse but it was scary to cross. I had Mingma Tenzi behind belaying me so I was on safe hand. I finally crossed it and started fixing ahead.

We had very beautiful weather above Camp3 and it was very windy below 7000m on 15th January, John has his video from Camp 2 on 15 Jan which shows too much wind.

Crossing the crevasse, I fixed further 100m more and then I asked help from Mingma Tenzi to fix further because I was already tired breaking route in deep snow above the crevasse.

Source: Mingma G – FB